Three Fashion Weeks, One Mood
From London grit to Milan grandeur and Parisian polish, this season celebrates reinvention, tribute, and fresh voices
Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway
Across three cities over nearly three weeks—London, Milan, and Paris—designers unveiled their Spring/Summer 2026 collections. These cities remain the epicenters of fashion, where creativity is both celebrated and redefined. From H&M’s striking London takeover to Giorgio Armani’s final Milan show, and concluding in Paris with craft-driven houses, debut collections, and standout presentations, the season highlighted fashion’s dual pulse of innovation and homage. The European run proved that designers are unafraid to take risks. As Paris continues, the energy suggests a surge of creative momentum.
London: Energy, Community, and Commercial Firepower
September 18–22, 2025
London Fashion Week kicked off with a clear message under the British Fashion Council’s new leadership. The standout newcomer was H&M, whose street-level takeover emphasized that fashion week no longer belongs exclusively to high fashion. The collection featured tailored recycled wool blazers, sheer layers, and suits highlighting Scandinavian aesthetics, blending spectacle with accessibility.
Simone Rocha continued London’s experimental tradition, delivering intricate lacework and sculptural silhouettes with an emotional edge. Voluminous puff sleeves paired with military boots created a compelling balance of femininity and toughness, emphasizing craft-driven romance.
Nanushka brought understated sophistication, combining Budapest-inspired minimalism with soft neutrals, longline leather coats, breezy silks, and crochet layers. The collection offered a calm, wearable counterpoint to trend-driven noise, proving that subtlety can command attention.
Richard Quinn’s SS26 show was theatrical and unforgettable. Models walked through cathedral-like floral arrangements in latex bodysuits and ballooning gowns, creating a striking visual contrast. Patrick McDowell infused his show with cultural narratives and sustainability, using upcycled textiles and embroidered slogans to underscore storytelling as central to London fashion.
Off the runway, JW Anderson’s dinner with the British Fashion Council became a key moment, emphasizing collaboration and community as vital elements of London’s fashion ecosystem.
H&M
Image Courtesy of H&M
SIMONE ROCHA
Image Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni via Vogue Runway
fmmé’s London take: This season reinforced London’s reputation as a hub for experimentation and connection, where risk-taking and collaboration coexist naturally.
Milan: Grandeur, Debuts, and Farewells
September 23–29, 2025
If London was about energy and community, Milan was about scale and drama. Demna’s debut at Gucci was the highlight, with the collection “La Famiglia” combining oversized, streetwise silhouettes with nods to Gucci’s heritage. The show sparked debate, reflecting Demna’s goal of provoking conversation while evolving the brand.
Jil Sander offered contrast with Simone Bellotti’s first collection for the house: streamlined tailoring with subtle romantic touches, balancing minimalism with softness. Bottega Veneta impressed with Louise Trotter’s leatherwork and woven silhouettes, perfectly marrying innovation with wearability.
The emotional peak came with Giorgio Armani’s farewell show. Softly tailored suits and understated elegance marked a moving tribute to decades of Italian fashion leadership, with the ovation honoring both the clothes and the legacy behind them.
Other notable moments included Boss’s sleek suits, Prada’s clean architectural dresses, Ferrari’s sporty-luxury vision, and Alberta Ferretti’s airy romanticism.
BOTTEGA VENETA
Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway
PRADA
Image Courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch via Vogue Runway
fmmé’s Milan take: The city balanced new beginnings—from Demna, Bellotti, and Trotter—with Armani’s poignant exit, creating a week charged with emotion and grandeur.
Paris: The Creative Epicenter (Ongoing)
September 29–October 7, 2025
Paris remains in full swing, with designers like Julie Kegels, Ganni, Dries van Noten, Mugler, Schiaparelli, Loewe, Balenciaga, Maison Margiela, Yamamoto, and Dior defining the conversation. The city combines youthful energy, dramatic artistry, and experimental craftsmanship. Paris is where ideas reach their most polished and compelling forms.
The Through-Line: Reinvention with Respect
Across London and Milan, one theme was clear: reinvention is not a break from the past but an evolution of it.
Reinvention: From Demna at Gucci to Bellotti at Jil Sander, designers pushed house codes forward while acknowledging history.
Tribute: Armani’s farewell and Rocha’s gothic romanticism honored tradition while reinterpreting it.
Commercial Clarity: H&M in London and Boss in Milan demonstrated that spectacle and sales can coexist.
Fashion today is about layering, remixing, and respecting what came before while charting a path forward.
Trendboard: What to Wear Next
Key trends emerging from London’s grit and Milan’s grandeur include:
Quiet Tailoring: Armani’s farewell suits, Jil Sander’s fluid blazers.
Statement Outerwear: Richard Quinn’s florals, Ferrari’s racing jackets, H&M’s oversized coats.
Artisanal Textures: Rocha’s lace, Bottega’s basketweave, Ferretti’s gauzy layers.
Oversized Accessories: Bottega’s slouchy clutches, Prada’s angular totes.
These trends are more than fleeting; they invest in lasting style.
As the three-week fashion cycle concludes, one message is clear: fashion is recalibrating, not retreating. London brought fresh energy, Milan showcased high-stakes debuts and farewells, and Paris confirmed its position as a creative hub. This season proves that fashion thrives by evolving while honoring its past.