Anthony Vaccarello: Sleek, Sexy Tailoring and the Reinvention of Saint Laurent
From La Cambre graduate to Saint Laurent’s austere seduction, how the Belgian-Italian designer sharpened XXI-century tailoring into a vocabulary of confidence.
His fashion is not a homage to Yves Saint Laurent but a thoughtful redefinition of the legendary designer’s legacy. Anthony Vaccarello has forged a path that respects tradition and is daringly contemporary. At the core of his vision lies a delicate balance between masculinity and femininity, discipline and seduction, structured tailoring, and effortless sensuality.
Each collection is conceived with the wearer in mind, designed to make an impression when the spotlight inevitably falls upon them. Elegant finishes, voluminous fabrics, and a nuanced palette of neutral tones interspersed with bold blocks of color bring life to even the dullest days and evenings. In an era dominated by fast-moving trends, streetwear influence, and a growing emphasis on comfort, Vaccarello and the Belgian-Italian design duo behind the house have consistently pursued a different path: confidence as luxury, expressed through seductive and uncompromising elegance. This distinct aesthetic has defined Anthony Vaccarello’s tenure as the Creative Director of Saint Laurent since 2016.
Image Courtesy of Design & Culture by Ed
From Brussels to the World: The Making of Vaccarello
Anthony Vaccarello was born in 1982 in Brussels, Belgium, to a family with Italian roots. While his early trajectory seemed poised toward the legal profession, he initially studied law. Vaccarello quickly realized that his true calling lay in fashion, particularly in creating garments for women of strength, self-assurance, and presence. Pursuing this passion, he enrolled at La Cambre, the renowned Brussels School of Fashion, known for its rigorous approach to design and innovative curriculum.
His graduation collection, a complete leather line, made an immediate impact. The jury at the Hyères Festival in 2006, which included luminaries such as Ann Demeulemeester, recognized his work for its technical mastery, conceptual clarity, and strong aesthetic vision, awarding him the top prize. This recognition confirmed Vaccarello’s talent and provided him a platform to launch his career. The award led to a two-year appointment at Fendi in Rome, where he worked as a designer focusing on fur and structured pieces. In the studios of the Italian house, he learned the collaborative nature of running a fashion brand, a lesson that would later inform his approach to creative leadership.
In 2008, Vaccarello launched his eponymous label in Paris. The collections were immediately noted for their minimalism, yet charged with sensuality, precision, and an understated power. Celebrities, stylists, and the global fashion press took notice, and in 2011, he was awarded the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award, accompanied by a €200,000 grant to support the expansion of his brand. Vaccarello’s approach to design is intensely personal; as he explains:
Anthony Vaccarello & Donatella Versace. Image Courtesy of La Dépêche
““When I’m working, I’m making clothes around the body. I’m more about the draping, and finding the right line,” Vaccarello explains. “Maybe because I’m half-Italian and half-Belgian, I strive for both a kind of sensuality and a control and construction.””
“When I’m working, I’m making clothes around the body. I’m more about the draping and finding the right line. Maybe because I’m half-Italian and half-Belgian, I strive for sensuality, control, and construction.”
Two years after receiving the ANDAM accolade, Vaccarello was appointed Creative Director of Versus Versace, the iconic Italian house's younger, edgier sister brand. Following in the footsteps of designers such as Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson, and M.I.A., he debuted his first collection for Versus Versace in 2014 at New York Fashion Week. These formative years refined his vision, reinforced his understanding of brand identity, and deepened his knowledge of global fashion markets. In 2016, Vaccarello made the pivotal move to Saint Laurent, a house whose legacy was still deeply intertwined with the rock-inspired vision of Hedi Slimane.
Rewriting History, One Runway at a Time
When Anthony Vaccarello assumed leadership at Saint Laurent, he inherited a house with a storied past. Yves Saint Laurent, the founder, had established the brand as a symbol of modern femininity and avant-garde elegance. In the 1960s and 1970s, Yves created pieces that challenged societal norms, from the androgynous “Le Smoking” tuxedo to dresses that blurred the line between male and female silhouettes. His muses, including Betty Catroux and Catherine Deneuve, embodied the house's intellectual, rebellious, and daring spirit. Vaccarello understood that he was stepping into a legacy with clearly defined characteristics: boldness, sensuality, and a willingness to challenge conventions.
However, Vaccarello pursued a gradual evolution rather than seeking to overhaul the brand. He respected the house’s heritage while infusing it with his distinct voice. With meticulous attention to tailoring, fabric, and silhouette, he modernized the brand without erasing its soul. This approach ensured that the Saint Laurent woman retained her power, confidence, and sophistication.
The true turning point of his tenure came with the Spring/Summer 2018 show, held at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, a symbol of Parisian elegance and one of the most iconic locations for a runway. Here, Vaccarello paid homage to Yves while asserting his own creative authority. The show was a masterclass in tension and drama: perfectly staged, with a cinematic rhythm, and a clear focus on empowering the female form. Models carried themselves with assertiveness rather than objectification, projecting sensuality as a statement of strength rather than ornamentation. Since then, Vaccarello’s shows have become highly anticipated events, merging fashion with theatrical storytelling and experiential artistry.
Vaccarello’s SS18 at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway
Stars, Streets, and Spotlight Magic
Under Vaccarello’s direction, Saint Laurent has emerged as one of the most influential brands in contemporary fashion. The house extends far beyond the runway, commanding attention on red carpets, in the media, and within popular culture. Historically seen as a label for Parisian high society and the arts, Saint Laurent under Vaccarello has embraced a broader cultural spectrum. The brand has become synonymous with empowered glamour, attracting stars who wish to project confidence without sacrificing elegance.
Zoë Kravitz, Hailey Bieber, and Rosé from BLACKPINK are among the many celebrities who regularly wear Vaccarello’s dramatic collections. His designs, frequently in black, with plunging necklines, sharp shoulders, and bold, architectural details, fuse power and femininity into a cohesive vision. These garments are not merely decorations but statements, articulating identity and presence precisely.
Vaccarello’s brilliance lies in his ability to merge storytelling with style. He has positioned Saint Laurent as a multidimensional brand equally compelling on the runway, across social media platforms, and in digital campaigns. Strategic collaborations have ensured the brand remains relevant for younger audiences while honoring its heritage. Notable examples include:
Campaigns featuring Travis Scott in 2019 introduced Saint Laurent to the hip-hop world, a sector traditionally untouched by European luxury brands.
Collaborations with Gaspar Noé, producing the experimental fashion film Lux Æterna, blurring the boundaries between cinema and runway presentation.
The launch of Saint Laurent Productions, a label dedicated to producing fashion-focused films, including screenings at the Cannes Film Festival in 2023.
Through these initiatives, Vaccarello has extended the house’s influence beyond fashion into the realms of art, cinema, and digital culture. Saint Laurent is no longer just a label; it is a lifestyle, an experience, and a cultural statement.
Hailey Bieber in A New-Season Saint Laurent Coat & Mini Skirt. Image Courtesy of British Vogue
Zoë Kravitz in a Saint Laurent Sheer Lace Minidress. Image Courtesy of Harper’s BAZAAR
Tailoring the Future: Vaccarello’s Vision for 2025
In 2025, Anthony Vaccarello remains one of the rare designers who keep the art of tailoring alive while maintaining relevance in a fast-evolving fashion landscape. Where many houses succumb to fleeting trends and casualization, Vaccarello remains steadfast in his vision and Saint Laurent's core DNA. His work demonstrates that precision, sculptural design, and classical elegance can coexist with modern freedom and self-expression.
He modernizes heritage without diluting it, maintains meticulous craftsmanship, and brings calm and clarity to an industry often driven by chaos and spectacle. His strategic consistency and ability to make timeless design appealing to younger audiences have solidified his position as one of the defining designers of his generation.
Image Courtesy of Design & Culture by Ed
Under Vaccarello’s leadership, Saint Laurent has reclaimed its place as one of the most influential fashion houses of the decade. The brand’s architectural silhouettes, luxurious minimalism, and subtle provocations have made it both contemporary and iconic. Vaccarello has created a Saint Laurent that lives entirely in the present while remaining deeply connected to Yves's spirit and legacy.